Siem Reap and Angkor Wat

One thing you have to allow when you are planning a trip to Siem Reap is to have USD25 left to pay the airport service tax. As far as I can see this amount is to pay the salaries of the officers to frisk you, tell you rudely to drink whatever water you have left in your flask or plastic bottle and to stare you for a terrorist before stamping your passport. Seriously, I see no other reason why they should charge 25 dorlah.

I thought this service tax was paid for along with my Airasia ticket but no such luck. Quite a few fellow passengers were just as bewildered as I was. Luckily they had spare cash. But then again no worries if you have a credit card. They accept Visa and Masters. Airasia didn’t warn you, did they?   What did you expect?!

Leaving that unpleasantry behind, Siem Reap is a great place to be. Even in the humid and hot summer, I enjoyed myself. Probably it is the holiday mindset. You feel good and do not mind the dust and smog and flies. Even with sweat dripping down and shirt clinging wet on your back, you will still be having fun.

Far as I can see, both young and old were enjoying the Tuk-tuk rides. They do look so but with big black sunglasses, who can tell? But they seemed happy.

Now, how many days make a good trip? I would say five. Most seem to make it a two night affair, flying into town (ok, city) in the morning, rush off to see the sunset, rise early to see the sunrise and then fly off the next day. Some may squeeze in Tonle Sap lake ride in the afternoon. IF I might say so, this is not good.

I initially thought Angkor Wat was just one temple. Was I wrong! True, Angkor Wat is indeed one temple but actually Angkor is the ruins of an ancient kingdom spanning over 600 years from the late 8^th century until the 14^th century. If you are a history or archaeology buff, this is it. Some ruins like the Banteay Srei look s so intact, you would not believe that it dates from the late 10^th century. That’s a thousand years ago.

Five days. That would be just about right for a ‘short’ rendezvous with Angkor. A day pass is US20 and for US40 it allows you to enter any 3 days within the next 7 days. This is the one to go for. No two ways about it. I made early morning runs and then headed back to my hotel for a shower, rest before tackling the ruins in the afternoon. But to do what I do, either have a prior understanding with your tuk-tuk or tip him handsomely. Petrol is expensive, a dollar a liter, so it costs them is they charter you back and forth. Remember, the common take home for these folks is US30 a month.

With 5 days, the first day can be nicely spent exploring the town, savoring the local delicacies, checking out the old market or simply just walk along the river. It may bring back childhood memories when you see naked little children having a gale of time bathing in the river.

Day 2, take in a lazy breakfast (don’t forget to try the local coffee), then tuk along to Angkor. You could hire a car but at this time and place, it is just not Angkor. No sour grapes here but allow me some disdain at those who flash about in 4-wheel drives in a city that is so much a reminder of a lost past. Sunglasses and pale faces along with hats and zoom cameras in big cars somehow seems distant and patronizing. It is more fun to just take time with all Angkor has to offer.

There need be no hurry. It is usual to start off with Angkor Wat herself. For refreshment, local coconuts go for 1 to 2 dollars and it is very serene just sitting under the trees watching the world go by.

Go for the Angkor sunset. It is a 10-20 minutes walk or climb depending on how fit you are. This sunset thing seems to be the in-thing to do. Almost everyone does it. So did I. Just like a cinema show before the curtain rises, people are jammed pack on the summit which actually is an old ruin itself. Some take pictures, others loiter while yet others stare at the open horizon. Occasionally, a plane glides across the sky. You have to be lucky this one to catch a real glorious sunset.

Day 3. It could be another day for temple trotting but it could also be a day out further afield like visiting the outskirts. Hire your favorite tuk-tuk driver for the day. The current rate is US10 from sunrise to sunset. Of course, you may have to pay more if you are going long distances – more petrol burnt. Check out those stilt houses which are ideal for the Khmer weather.

Or you could go to the lake Tonle Sap. There are boat hires at Chong Kneas, a little village, where for US10 per person, the boat takes you out to the floating village. This is a standard 1-1/2 package. For US25, you get 2-1/2 hours. Board after 5.30pm and you just get to view the sunset over the lake.

Day 4. Wake up early to catch the Angkor sunrise. After that, there is the the bigger circuit which you would not have the time to take in the first time. Believe me, the forest that forms part of the heritage is ever inviting. Feel the ageless faces and stones as they take you back to a different era in time. Imagine busy lives once bustled those silent corridors as flames burnt and chants resonates all around. If you have time ask the tuk-tuk driver to take you to the local night market. I am not sure but I believe everything is local and comes straight from the farm. I will not say more.

Day 5 would be time to make a run to make a run to Roulos or to Banteay Srei and beyond. Banteay Srei is not to be missed for its well preserved architecture and bas relief work. The kampong scenery is the bonus part of the trip. On the way back, look out for the mines museum. It is private owned and is a stark reminder of how human ingenuity and intelligence can be used to maim and cause suffering.

If you see big woks cooking by the roadside, they are making palm sugar candy. These candies are made from palm flowers soaked in bamboo tubes, very fragrant. You can buy some and give them to the little kids who ask, “Please give me candies.” Of course, you will be leaving tomorrow so you may never see those plightful-looking kids again. (actually the kids are asking for money, not candies)

Tonle Sap lake ride is one of the offerings but it is disappointing. You could go for the ride cum dinner and sunset package at US33 but what the heck? If you leave from the jetty your little boat skims over shallow muddy water for  30 minutes before you reach the open lake of boat houses. A few mandatory stops at a crocodile farm (nothing to see) and a sundry shop where you are expected to be generous to buy books.

Ok, if you are not into old temples and stones, what is there? You could enjoy the forest. Actually, it reminded me of a friend, now deceased bless him, who was a nature and spook lover. He came here a few years back and I could imagine him falling in love with the place. The air is cooler under the canopies and it is nature herself. In fact, some of the setting of the ruins reminds me of Thai monks and temples. It brought back memories of my time in Thai monasteries. Everything is leisurely and serene and just right for one to seek enlightenment under the ancient boughs.

The real majesties of Angkor are the trees. You can’t but fall in love with them. One woman though looked at me rather curiously when she saw me touching the trees. She must thought this fellow rather queer. Probably nuts.

If you are neither Buddhist or Hindu, is there anything for you? Of course! One Muslim couple I met were sweating it out under the hot sun and I would say they were having just as much fun as anyone. Their young daughter loved the climbs and ‘funny’ stone faces. Come to think of it, all these stones do require a lot of clambering about but that’s great exercise. Losing a good kilo a day is very possible.

Anyway, Angkor is a city ruins with a history. I look at it that way just as I would look at Machu Picchu or the Sphinx. It holds no significance for me and honestly, nor were there any oomphs and aahs. Beside thinking how civilizations and kingdoms can rise and fall, the other thought I had was that I now know where all those film makers get their inspiration from.

We all get tired in the end. Age does funny things to you. What was a flight of stone steps then? But for tired legs, there’s hope. For a dollar, you could sit back, relax and dip your weary feet in a fish tank filled with piranha lookalikes. These hungry creatures will peck whatever they can get from your feet. No fear, they say it is the best natural form of healing – no side effects.

You could try their massage though. That’s five dollars, that is if you speak Khmer. Otherwise, it will be seven dollars. No need to seek then out, they are everywhere. I hear they do a good job but I’m ticklish. Besides my tender vertebrae is prone to fractures so I can’t really give you a first person account.

I talked about food earlier but if you are selective there are (I was told) two Muslim restaurants in town. Pub Street is food heaven and if are well-heeled, then there are no shortage of fine dining at any of the multi-stars hotels that abound.

I see one restaurant in pub street with a sign that says “fully Khmer owned. Please help”.  This is very telling.  I was told that only 2 out of all those outlets in Pub Street are owned by Khmers. It is a reflection of the state of Siem Reap. Foreigners see this as a cheap enclave and very soon the place becomes unrecognizable. For us used to western food and taste, it makes the place ‘visitable’ but something is lost. Draught beers and wine is fine and adds a flavor to the place but if overdone, Khmer is sacrificed. When that happens, one might as well buy a CD or watch National Geographic.

NGOs are active. In the villages, I see signboards outside houses proclaiming who sponsored or gifted those houses. I do not know whose idea it was to put them up but it is so out of place. I hear that handouts make the locals complacent and sink them into apathy.

On the streets, kids sell things when being in school would have been better. Some beg, fortunately not many. These are not good signs for the future. Khmers may be poor but that is no excuse to be robbed of their pride and self esteem. It will be a tough battle as it is already happening. The boatman starts off a conversation by telling you how much, rather how little, he earns. It is a simple play, paving the way for a tip at the end of the ride.

Elsewhere, the tuk-tuk driver and masseur have the idea that all tourists are rich. They ask, how much do we earn. Whatever amount we tell,  it becomes a ridiculous astronomical figure to them. Little do they know that we are just scraping through. It justifies the expectation of a tip. Greed creeps in and cheapens. I hope this does not happen.

As a visitor, it is so easy to forget that Cambodia once suffered under a terrible regime. Young carefree children we see make it so easy to forget. And hope says Cambodians will never experience such tragedy again.

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