Paths of Glory (Click here to own a copy)

It was such that I was unable to revisit Tibet this summer. Where I had planned to go, it is biting cold, harsh and pristine. Set at the top of the world, this grassland sits with the Himalayas since time immemorial. However I found some consolation in finding some time to read Jeffrey Archer’s “Paths of Glory”.

And it was some consolation. Archer, again, in his distinct style (and imagination) weaves another probable tale about the conquest of Chomolungma.

Chomolungma? Mount Everest, my friend. Goddess of the Earth, that’s how the Natives, the Tibetans address her before English changed her name.

Edmund Hilary & Sherpa Tenzing Norgay

Sir Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay are recorded as having reached the peak of Mt Everest on 29^th May 1953 but this Archer tale tells us that a certain George Mallory succeeded long before Hilary. Of course, this is not what we care about when we read an Archer novel. It is the submission to his writing and his imagination that captivates us time and again, luring us into spending hours and hours lost in his world.

Within the cosy comforts of home, I could feel the piercing unforgiving cold as the story unfolds. I could empathize with the climbers as they struggled to acclimatize to the altitude. Every step of their breathless struggle reminded me of my own breathlessness before. And I was only at 12000 feet. Chomolungma is 29,028 feet. (Archer says 29,002 feet probably Everest has sunk since my schooldays.)

George Mallory

Each chapter is distinct and follows a straight chronological style. For aged readers like me, this makes it easier to put down. You know what I mean. When one is young, a novel is read non-stop. The story is feasted on the couch, on the floor, the meal table, on the bed never letting go until every morsel is devoured, eyes never leaving the pages. It makes one think that evolution has made man to have arms and hands strategically constructed to enable food to reach the mouth without need of eyes or brain.

Ruth Young (Mrs Mallory)

The novel has its juicy moments of romance which serves only as a byline. But come to think of it, the story would be only half as long without it. A simple tale which can, no doubt, be recounted in less than five minutes. But then, most novels are such. Novels are meant to enthrall us and unknowingly move on, eager to know the ending. On this, Archer has done exceedingly well here.

“Because it’s there” this is the famous retort, supposedly by Mallory when asked “Why do you want to climb Mount Everest?”

One thing you have to allow when you are planning a trip to Siem Reap is to have USD25 left to pay the airport service tax. As far as I can see this amount is to pay the salaries of the officers to frisk you, tell you rudely to drink whatever water you have left in your flask or plastic bottle and to stare you for a terrorist before stamping your passport. Seriously, I see no other reason why they should charge 25 dorlah.

I thought this service tax was paid for along with my Airasia ticket but no such luck. Quite a few fellow passengers were just as bewildered as I was. Luckily they had spare cash. But then again no worries if you have a credit card. They accept Visa and Masters. Airasia didn’t warn you, did they?   What did you expect?!

Leaving that unpleasantry behind, Siem Reap is a great place to be. Even in the humid and hot summer, I enjoyed myself. Probably it is the holiday mindset. You feel good and do not mind the dust and smog and flies. Even with sweat dripping down and shirt clinging wet on your back, you will still be having fun.

Far as I can see, both young and old were enjoying the Tuk-tuk rides. They do look so but with big black sunglasses, who can tell? But they seemed happy.

Now, how many days make a good trip? I would say five. Most seem to make it a two night affair, flying into town (ok, city) in the morning, rush off to see the sunset, rise early to see the sunrise and then fly off the next day. Some may squeeze in Tonle Sap lake ride in the afternoon. IF I might say so, this is not good.

Faces of Angkor Thom

I initially thought Angkor Wat was just one temple. Was I wrong! True, Angkor Wat is indeed one temple but actually Angkor is the ruins of an ancient kingdom spanning over 600 years from the late 8^th century until the 14^th century. If you are a history or archaeology buff, this is it. Some ruins like the Banteay Srei look s so intact, you would not believe that it dates from the late 10^th century. That’s a thousand years ago.

Banteay Srei

Five days. That would be just about right for a ‘short’ rendezvous with Angkor. A day pass is US20 and for US40 it allows you to enter any 3 days within the next 7 days. This is the one to go for. No two ways about it. I made early morning runs and then headed back to my hotel for a shower, rest before tackling the ruins in the afternoon. But to do what I do, either have a prior understanding with your tuk-tuk or tip him handsomely. Petrol is expensive, a dollar a liter, so it costs them is they charter you back and forth. Remember, the common take home for these folks is US30 a month.

With 5 days, the first day can be nicely spent exploring the town, savoring the local delicacies, checking out the old market or simply just walk along the river. It may bring back childhood memories when you see naked little children having a gale of time bathing in the river.

Day 2, take in a lazy breakfast (don’t forget to try the local coffee), then tuk along to Angkor. You could hire a car but at this time and place, it is just not Angkor. No sour grapes here but allow me some disdain at those who flash about in 4-wheel drives in a city that is so much a reminder of a lost past. Sunglasses and pale faces along with hats and zoom cameras in big cars somehow seems distant and patronizing. It is more fun to just take time with all Angkor has to offer.

There need be no hurry. It is usual to start off with Angkor Wat herself. For refreshment, local coconuts go for 1 to 2 dollars and it is very serene just sitting under the trees watching the world go by.

Glorious Sunset over Angkor

Go for the Angkor sunset. It is a 10-20 minutes walk or climb depending on how fit you are. This sunset thing seems to be the in-thing to do. Almost everyone does it. So did I. Just like a cinema show before the curtain rises, people are jammed pack on the summit which actually is an old ruin itself. Some take pictures, others loiter while yet others stare at the open horizon. Occasionally, a plane glides across the sky. You have to be lucky this one to catch a real glorious sunset.

Day 3. It could be another day for temple trotting but it could also be a day out further afield like visiting the outskirts. Hire your favorite tuk-tuk driver for the day. The current rate is US10 from sunrise to sunset. Of course, you may have to pay more if you are going long distances – more petrol burnt. Check out those stilt houses which are ideal for the Khmer weather.

Or you could go to the lake Tonle Sap. There are boat hires at Chong Kneas, a little village, where for US10 per person, the boat takes you out to the floating village. This is a standard 1-1/2 package. For US25, you get 2-1/2 hours. Board after 5.30pm and you just get to view the sunset over the lake.

Angkor Sunrise over the Baray (Reservoir)

Day 4. Wake up early to catch the Angkor sunrise. After that, there is the the bigger circuit which you would not have the time to take in the first time. Believe me, the forest that forms part of the heritage is ever inviting. Feel the ageless faces and stones as they take you back to a different era in time. Imagine busy lives once bustled those silent corridors as flames burnt and chants resonates all around. If you have time ask the tuk-tuk driver to take you to the local night market. I am not sure but I believe everything is local and comes straight from the farm. I will not say more.

Banteay Srei

Day 5 would be time to make a run to make a run to Roulos or to Banteay Srei and beyond. Banteay Srei is not to be missed for its well preserved architecture and bas relief work. The kampong scenery is the bonus part of the trip. On the way back, look out for the mines museum. It is private owned and is a stark reminder of how human ingenuity and intelligence can be used to maim and cause suffering.

If you see big woks cooking by the roadside, they are making palm sugar candy. These candies are made from palm flowers soaked in bamboo tubes, very fragrant. You can buy some and give them to the little kids who ask, “Please give me candies.” Of course, you will be leaving tomorrow so you may never see those plightful-looking kids again. (actually the kids are asking for money, not candies)

Tonle Sap Floating Village

Tonle Sap lake ride is one of the offerings but it is disappointing. You could go for the ride cum dinner and sunset package at US33 but what the heck? If you leave from the jetty your little boat skims over shallow muddy water for  30 minutes before you reach the open lake of boat houses. A few mandatory stops at a crocodile farm (nothing to see) and a sundry shop where you are expected to be generous to buy books.

Dancing Girl or Goddess?

Ok, if you are not into old temples and stones, what is there? You could enjoy the forest. Actually, it reminded me of a friend, now deceased bless him, who was a nature and spook lover. He came here a few years back and I could imagine him falling in love with the place. The air is cooler under the canopies and it is nature herself. In fact, some of the setting of the ruins reminds me of Thai monks and temples. It brought back memories of my time in Thai monasteries. Everything is leisurely and serene and just right for one to seek enlightenment under the ancient boughs.

The real majesties of Angkor are the trees. You can’t but fall in love with them. One woman though looked at me rather curiously when she saw me touching the trees. She must thought this fellow rather queer. Probably nuts.

Angkor Wat Enlightenment

If you are neither Buddhist or Hindu, is there anything for you? Of course! One Muslim couple I met were sweating it out under the hot sun and I would say they were having just as much fun as anyone. Their young daughter loved the climbs and ‘funny’ stone faces. Come to think of it, all these stones do require a lot of clambering about but that’s great exercise. Losing a good kilo a day is very possible.

Face of Buddha, Angkor Thom

Anyway, Angkor is a city ruins with a history. I look at it that way just as I would look at Machu Picchu or the Sphinx. It holds no significance for me and honestly, nor were there any oomphs and aahs. Beside thinking how civilizations and kingdoms can rise and fall, the other thought I had was that I now know where all those film makers get their inspiration from.

My Friend

We all get tired in the end. Age does funny things to you. What was a flight of stone steps then? But for tired legs, there’s hope. For a dollar, you could sit back, relax and dip your weary feet in a fish tank filled with piranha lookalikes. These hungry creatures will peck whatever they can get from your feet. No fear, they say it is the best natural form of healing – no side effects.

Siem Reap Fish Food

You could try their massage though. That’s five dollars, that is if you speak Khmer. Otherwise, it will be seven dollars. No need to seek then out, they are everywhere. I hear they do a good job but I’m ticklish. Besides my tender vertebrae is prone to fractures so I can’t really give you a first person account.

I talked about food earlier but if you are selective there are (I was told) two Muslim restaurants in town. Pub Street is food heaven and if are well-heeled, then there are no shortage of fine dining at any of the multi-stars hotels that abound.

I see one restaurant in pub street with a sign that says “fully Khmer owned. Please help”.  This is very telling.  I was told that only 2 out of all those outlets in Pub Street are owned by Khmers. It is a reflection of the state of Siem Reap. Foreigners see this as a cheap enclave and very soon the place becomes unrecognizable. For us used to western food and taste, it makes the place ‘visitable’ but something is lost. Draught beers and wine is fine and adds a flavor to the place but if overdone, Khmer is sacrificed. When that happens, one might as well buy a CD or watch National Geographic.

NGOs are active. In the villages, I see signboards outside houses proclaiming who sponsored or gifted those houses. I do not know whose idea it was to put them up but it is so out of place. I hear that handouts make the locals complacent and sink them into apathy.

On the streets, kids sell things when being in school would have been better. Some beg, fortunately not many. These are not good signs for the future. Khmers may be poor but that is no excuse to be robbed of their pride and self esteem. It will be a tough battle as it is already happening. The boatman starts off a conversation by telling you how much, rather how little, he earns. It is a simple play, paving the way for a tip at the end of the ride.

Elsewhere, the tuk-tuk driver and masseur have the idea that all tourists are rich. They ask, how much do we earn. Whatever amount we tell,  it becomes a ridiculous astronomical figure to them. Little do they know that we are just scraping through. It justifies the expectation of a tip. Greed creeps in and cheapens. I hope this does not happen.

Victims of the Khmer Rouge

As a visitor, it is so easy to forget that Cambodia once suffered under a terrible regime. Young carefree children we see make it so easy to forget. And hope says Cambodians will never experience such tragedy again.

Future of Cambodia

Kompong Phhluk Boat Child

Two weeks after the earthquake brought great suffering to the folks of Yushu, the coconut tree in my garden burst forth flowers in all its glory.

Being  in a rather pensive mood then, I took this photograph and made a silent prayer that just as this tree springs new life, may the Yushu people too rise from the destruction with renewed vigour and hope. Just as the bees swarm these coconut flowers, may the kindness and generosity of humanity overflow.

After a night of rain, the air is so clear and the skies so blue. Something missed for a long time. So off to the barber I went and we exchanged stories. This time, it was ghost stories and encounters with the unknown.

Story no 1

This mother’s day, my barber went with her sister to a local fortune teller to ask about their money luck. Just ahead of them was a family requesting prayers for a deceased loved one. Quite an eerie affair this one. We were talking about male and female ghost you see.

As they were waiting their turn, a young boy about 8 asked them whether they see a man turning in circles a short distance from them. Of course, they saw nothing. Then the boy said that the man is now leaving but standing at the exit. Hm.. there was only one small lane out and they were so frightened when they left fearing bumping into the ghost who might still be there!

Story no 2

When she (my barber is a she) was very young, she was taken seriously ill. Refusing to hospitalize her daughter, her mother took her to a local medium who channeled a goddess. (People those days fear being hospitalised as it seemed those who do so seldom return alive.)

That night she could not sleep. Being very ill she was also very weak. But she saw a resplendent young woman in white robes sitting in meditative posture a short distance from her.

She tried waking up her parents who were sleeping in the same room but they could not be woken.  This white robed lady, ghost or goddess she did not know stayed the night. She recovered from her illness, without having to be hospitalized.

Was it a ghost or her guardian angel?

Note

My son says that ghosts are all females and the male ghosts have no time to play tricks on people.

Yushu - A Candle of Hope

Yesterday,  we sent the second transmission of money for the Yushu Earthquake Relief to reach Minam Rinpoche who will manage the fund. It is a huge show of generosity from friends across the globe. I believe this money will help ease the difficulties of the people of Yushu and help them get back on their feet. Rebuilding can then continue on from there.

There are so many things going on in the head figuring out how to be more effective and how to help. Sometimes, it is helplessness. If anyone has any ideas on how to raise funds, supply aid or anything useful, please give me a shout. Who knows? It may turn out to be a great idea!

Here’s one link to visit for news or updates

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=114671665218930

As the world moves on, there are many people who still care. Here are a two links :

www.rokpa-yushu-relief.org

http://yushuearthquakerelief.com/

And here is a first person account:

http://www.phayul.com/News/article.aspx?id=27154&t=1&c=10

On Monday we will be sending the second tranche of relief money over. Once again thanks to all friends who have contributed!

Have a good weekend and count our blessings. For me, it will be the biting cold and the broken of Yushu Qinghai.

As the flames burn

As the carrions devour your flesh

As the flames flicker and die

As the birds peck at your remains

As the smoke of your cremation fire disperse

So too may the rumbles of the earth desist

So too has the world quickly  forgotten

..

But for loved ones left behind

Homes are there no more

But life must go on

So we rebuild

Karma has bonded us

As time unfolds and continues

May this Yushu again be a pure abode

..

As Yushu rises from the ashes

As pure motivation and compassion arise

In the hearts of those who share your karma

As the haunts of the Mani Mantra

Resound in your hearts

And its echos fades in the distance

May its essence birth in ours..

We consciously did not want to contact Minam Rinpoche the days after the earthquake as we did not want to impose and disturb him in his work. Finally yesterday we called and we had this first person account from him. Brief as it is, it gives a glimpse of the situation there and the hope we have that the broken hearted will move on with their lives.

The situation has stabilized. Food supply is coming in and meanwhile they do with whatever is available. He brought in tents and people are now making it their temporary home. The Library is still standing but it is inhabitable. (From other reports and photos, it may have suffered structural damage. No one dare go in).

Yushu Earthquake Battered Bodies Broken Hearts

Now it is harrowing and heart wrenching for the Yushu people.  With time and lots of help, its pristine beauty and peacefulness will return. Once again, many have shown great generosity and compassionate coming forth with pledges and donations. Many are strangers whom we do not even know. Yushu thanks you! A list is published on http://norling-library.blogspot.com/2010/04/yush-earthquake-fund.html If you have contributed and your name is not on the list, please let us know to make the necessary corrections.

Yesterday we rushed the first tranche of money that we have received over. Our relief is that the money will reach those in need. Whatever help we can provide with this little candle, may it burn and light up someone’s life!

I still have no news of my friends. At this point no news is good news.

Yushu Earthquake Prayer

The first mail that greeted me this morning was one from a friend who pledged dollars for the people of Yushu. He was traveling in Canada. Yesterday we received texts from people who have banked in money. A moment ago as I write this, a call came in to contribute. Unconditional generosity! Yushu loves you!

More sad news continue to come in. At the same time, many people are rallying from across the globe are opening their hearts and dipping in to lend a helping hand.  Cutting across distance, countries, race, color, creed. Bravo! Sadhu!

Disaster has struck Yushu. Like the couple who walked this street of Yushu months ago, right now they need more than a prayer.

The days to come are critical and we must not let up effort. We can only do the little we can. But for the people of Yushu, they will have to pick up whatever is left from the rubble and carry on living. Or try to.

Woman and Child..Yushu Earthquake

It has been more than 48 hours now. The critical window is 72 hours. May the casualty toll will stop. May the woman and child in the picture above be safe and well.

Meanwhile, many friends around the world have and continue to contribute and rally funds some in USD, Euros and Pounds. If anyone anywhere in the world wishes to offer help, paypal is the easiest means. Write to magic8689@gmail.com for account number. For friends in South East Asia, call or write. Mindfully aware that time is of the essence, whoever is channeling funds over, try Western Union. Unless you have direct China account, it may be the fastest

In this darkest hour of need, it is so heartwarming to see so many people, friends and strangers coming forth to help.

The greatest threats are the cold, high altitude and remoteness. With temperatures near zero and the high atitude, survival is both superhuman effort and miracles. Pray the sniffer dogs and helpers adjust to the high altitude right away.

The airport road to town is closed (last we heard). Norling Library is badly damaged. People I know have fathers, sisters, family among the dead. Beyond this, there is no fresh news beyond what we can read from the media.

May my friends Lhamo, Ziga, Topa and all be safe. For others, stay strong, help is on the way.